Selecting the correct needle for your project is just as important as selecting the fabric, thread and stabilizer. There are different sizes and types of needles for different types of fabric. The European metric sizing system for sewing machine needles is numbered from 60 to 110. The American sizing system is numbered from 8 to 18. For both sizing systems, the lower the number the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the needle. Most needle companies show both sizes on the package.
A good rule to keep in mind: the lighter the fabric the smaller the needle size and the heavier the fabric the larger the needle size. Many times the thread you will be using for your sewing project will also determine the type of needle you choose. For example, when using a fine, delicate thread, be sure to use a smaller needle size.
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 | About Sewing Machine Needles
The Shank
The shank is the upper part of the needle. This is the part of the needle that is inserted into your sewing machine. There is a flat side and a round side. Make sure that the flat side faces away from you and the round side faces toward you when you are sitting in front of your sewing machine.
The Shaft
The shaft begins from the base of the shank to the point of your needle. The width of the shaft is the size of your needle.
The Groove
There is a groove that runs down the front of your needle. When your sewing needle is inserted into your fabric by your sewing machine, the thread lays within this groove and is protected.
The Scarf
The scarf is the indention in the back of the needle near the point. This indention allows the bobbin thread to pass closely to the needle's eye catching the needle thread… creating a stitch.
The Eye
The needle eye is the hole near the point of the needle. The thread passes through the needle from front to back. The thread should pass easily through the needle. You may have to choose a sewing machine needle based on the size of the eye if you are working with thicker thread.
The Point
The point is the sharp tip of your needle that penetrates the fabric. There are different needle points for different fabrics.
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![Sewing Machine Needle Sizes]( "Sewing Machine Needle Sizes") | Sewing Machine Needle Sizes
Sewing Machine Needle Sizes
On the packages of sewing needles you will see two numbers. The larger number is the European metric system and it tells you the diameter of the needle in fractions of a millimeter. The smaller number is the American numbering system.
For twin needles, the first needle is the distance between the needles in millimeteres. The second number is the European number for the size of the needle.
European/ American
60 / 8
65 / 9
70 / 10
75 / 11
80 / 12
90 / 14
100 / 16
110 / 18
You should select the size of the needle based on the weight of your fabric. The finer the fabric the lower the number you should use.
Fabric Needle Size
Very Lightweight - 8 or 9
Lightweight - 9, 10 or 11
Medium Weight - 12 or 14
Heavyweight - 14 or 16
Very Heavyweight 16 or 18
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Universal Machine Needles
The Universal needle has a sharp point for most general sewing applications from dress making to machine embroidery and machine quilting. The Universal needles can be used on the majority of fabrics including jerseys and synthetics.
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Ball Point Machine Needles Ballpoint needles are used generally in fine and medium needle sizes to prevent needle damage and laddering in light and medium weight man-made and knitted fabrics. Machine needles for lightweight stretch, elastic knitted lycra and jersey fabrics. The fine rounded point separates the fibres to prevent laddering and running. A ball point has a specially designed eye and scarf prevent skipped or missing stitches.
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Stretch Machine Needles
A Stretch Needle like the ball point also has a rounded tip. It's specially shaped shank creates good stitch formation on elastic or highly elastic fabrics such as lycra. Use a 70/ 10 needle. This is also a good needle for faux fur and fleece. Use a 90/14 needle.
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Quilting Needles for Machine
A Quilting Needle has a slim, tapered point and slightly stronger shaft for stitching through multiple fabric layers and across intersecting seams. Use a 70/10 or 80/12 for intricate designs. Use a 90/14 if your quilt sandwich is thick.
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Embroidery Machine Needles
Embroidery Needle This needle has a larger eye, a slightly rounded point and a deep scarf (groove above the eye) to protect decorative thread from shredding or breaking. Slightly rounded point; long eye. Use a 70/10 needle for dense embroidery.
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Sharps or Microtex Needles
A Sharp Point Needle (also called a Microtex needle) is thinner and sharper than the universal point. It makes a perfect straight stitch. Use it on very fine fabrics (including high thread count quilting cotton material) and chintz. It is an excellent all purpose needle for piecing, appliqué and quilting. An 80/12 is fine for general piecing and machine quilting. If you are using tiny threads (like bobbin, lingerie, invisible) in machine quilting, use a size 60/8. |
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Leather Machine Needles
A Leather Needle has a shape like a wedge at the point which makes a clean, large hole as it enters the fabric. This gives it good piercing power for unyielding fabric such as real leather, suede or heavy vinyl. Use a 110/18 needle. |
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